After a brief month whizzing around Europe, Victor Whiskey, equipped with his two comrades embarked on a two-month Viking adventure. We decided Southern Denmark was a good place to start, so we headed across the first of many impressive bridges and made our way to the first essential stop, Copenhagen. We made the most of the nightlife knowing it would be our last chance to party before heading to lands of absolute remoteness.

Onward and westward we went until we arrived at Romo, which was interesting. I guess it just wasn’t what we were expecting. The white sandy beaches stretched to the horizon giving the island a desert-like feel, which made for some rather remarkable sunset photos. We began to get a feel for ol’ Victor’s limits when we took him off-road down on the beach to find that perfect shot. A few hours and one ruined bathmat later, we had to call in the big guns. Nothing makes you feel like a silly foolhardy tourist, quite like needing to be towed out of the sand dunes by a not-so-friendly local.


After Romo, we stopped to visit friends in Aarhus and again in Gothenburg, before an international ferry ride that marked the commencement of our Northerly journey. Hugging the Swedish west coast we stumbled upon the oh-so-lively mid-summer party in Smogen. Picture an endless sea of beautifully blonde and blue-eyed Swedes, hair held back by wildflower wreaths dancing like frogs around maypoles. Utter brilliance! After a brief pause of a few days, northward we continued. Jess, Victor Whiskey and myself became increasingly more feral from this point on in the trip. The constant cold showers, endless hours in the sun and the general lack of interaction with other human beings attributed to our feral state.

The Norwegian leg of our journey commenced with the travel westward from the small Swedish mountain town of Are, across the country to Trondheim.

Driving the E6 North, we were instantly struck with the mountainous magnitude in which Norway starkly contrasts the neighbouring Sweden. Driving along the fjords, Jess and I knew we had found what we’d been searching for in our travels; sheer cliff faces plummeting into the deep blue and turquoise seas. We had four days to cruise to Bodo, where we were to ferry to Lofoten. Those days were spent exploring fishing towns and isolated beaches. We fished, then cooked our catch on campfires. As we made our way North, we occasionally pulled over on the smooth and windy mountain roads for a longboard session–it seemed rude not to!


Victor Whiskey got us to Lofoten; the journey was a surreal blur of hiking and fishing. Apart from the endless sun and forever being awed by the mountains, fjords and surrounding nature, the people of Lofoten were a highlight. Whether we were at the local village or the summit of a mountain, all people we met in Lofoten were undeniably open and friendly. We weren’t sure if it was because of the minimal population or the mountain air, but everyone genuinely had the time and desire to stop and chat. Conversations went far beyond small talk, which can be challenging midway up a difficult climb! The people were yet another reason to fall irrevocably in love with this place.

We had planned a 6 am kayak trip through Reinefjorden. However, at midnight, after looking at the water and the sky from our chosen camping spot, we decided not to wait. We launched the kayaks and began paddling to where the sun was still present. After the sun had disappeared behind a mountain, we paddled back towards another section of the fjord, where we reached the sea kayakers dream of complete stillness, glassy waters, and waterfalls. We realised that our whole trip so far, starting in Southern France at the very start of summer and then heading North through Belgium, Germany and Sweden, were all in preparation for our time in Lofoten. We had been chasing the midnight sun. Our nights became shorter and our days became longer until we had no known ‘night-time’ at all. Every evening the golden, pastel skies from the sunset merged into crisp blue hues from the sunrise, the sky never going completely dark. The experience was far too impressive to sleep through.


Prior to our arrival in Lofoten, we were both feeling a touch anxious. We had built up the wonders of this place so much in our minds that we feared our expectations might have gotten the better of us. We need not have worried. As unforgettable as we imagined Lofoten to be, it was so much more! We suffered mild delirium, which happened shortly after our arrival. Our delirium was due to sleep deprivation and the need to stay up all day and night, soaking in all of Lofoten’s wonders. Our pituitary glands were on overdrive! Surviving on minimal sleep paid off, as we both felt extremely satisfied with every un-wasted moment of our experience.

After two weeks of constant sun, we were excited to see the stars again. And so back south we drove. Having only a week left in Norway, we bolted straight for Trolltunga. Described in recent years, as perhaps the most quintessential tourist experience Norway has to offer, we were excited but also apprehensive of crowds. With this in mind, we made the quick-fire decision to begin the 10 hour/ 22 km hike at 11 pm.


Having left the midnight sun behind us, we walked in darkness for a few hours, arriving at Trolltunga in time for sunrise, devoid of any other human interaction. The walk back at 5 am after no sleep was every bit as rough as you could imagine. It wasn’t until we started passing the hundreds of hikers just setting off on their journey, that the real smugness set in.

A few days of recovery found us strolling the first big city streets in weeks. We ferried from Bergen to Denmark and then drove south to Germany, concluding our Scandinavian adventure. We eagerly anticipated the next phase of our journey, Scotland and Ireland; lands where we could afford to go out for a pint and a meal.

Photos: Jess Bonde // I.G: @j_bonde

Words: Emily Larmer // I.G: @emilylarmer